Brasieres cup E from 85 to 120: the depth where international sizes differ, a French E being a British or American DD.
The transition to a bra cup E happens at a 21-centimetre difference between the bust and back. This is also the first depth where sizing systems diverge: a French E equates to a DD in the UK and the US, and this difference carries over to all subsequent letters.
Up to cup D, the letters match between France, the UK, and the US. Starting from the bra cup E, they shift: E becomes DD, F becomes E, G becomes F. Therefore, a British brand that states DD corresponds to a French E, not a D. This shift explains a significant number of purchasing errors on foreign catalogs. The band size also changes systems: a French 90 corresponds to a British 34.
Three elements become essential. Three-piece cups that project instead of just holding. Wide, adjustable straps placed far enough apart not to dig into the shoulder. And a wide back band with three rows of hooks that distributes the weight. The full-coverage and minimiser styles are the two shapes that reliably meet these criteria.