Underwear Wacoal with underwire, padded or without underwire, in minimiser or full coverage versions: the Japanese brand founded in 1946 builds its cups based on morphological measurements rather than a standard pattern, from cup A to cup H.
The bra Wacoal comes from a company that built its reputation on fit. Founded in Kyoto in 1946 by Koichi Tsukamoto, it is the first lingerie brand in Japan, where bras did not exist: Tsukamoto cut his first pattern from paper for his wife, and the "model no 101" was marketed four years later.
The company launched the seamless bra in 1959, long before microfiber made the process common in Europe. This advancement comes from one method: the cups are designed from morphological measurements, rather than a graded pattern going up and down. In practice, this shows in two areas, the depth of the cup at the base of the breast and the position of the underwire under the arm, where most mainstream brands simply shift the pattern.
Three families cover the essence of the catalogue. The Wacoal minimiser bra redistributes the volume to the sides rather than compresses: it makes a size look smaller under a shirt without flattening the bust, and it is the most requested shape of the brand in France. The Wacoal moulded bras give a smooth line under a thin garment. A Wacoal non-wired bra maintains a true shape thanks to lined cups and a wide back band, where the lack of underwire often means a lack of support elsewhere. The Wacoal underwired bra remains the reference for all-day support.
The range covers from cup A to cup H and the brand is distributed in over 70 countries, which is why size correspondences appear in several systems on the labels. A bra Wacoal is chosen based on two measurements, the band size and the cup size, never on a clothing size. The unique trap for this brand lies elsewhere: its cups being constructed based on measurements, they often appear smaller when trying on than they actually are, and many women go up a letter size without needing to.